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Photo ride

Tokyo's Ginza Line in fifteen photographs, from Shibuya to Asakusa

Nineteen stops on the oldest subway line in East Asia, from the shrine avenue at Omotesando to Edo's old highways and the gate of Sensoji.

Zelkova trees forming a leafy tunnel over Omotesando Avenue in Tokyo in spring
Photo: Kakidai · CC BY-SA 3.0

The Ginza Line is the orange line, and it is the oldest subway line in Tokyo. The first stretch opened on December 30, 1927, between Ueno and Asakusa. It was only 2.2 kilometres long, with four stations, and it was the first subway in East Asia. The line reached Shimbashi in 1934. A second company, the Tokyo Rapid Railway, built its own subway from Shibuya to Shimbashi, which was finished in 1939, and the two companies were merged in 1941.

Today the line runs from Shibuya (G01) to Asakusa (G19), 19 stations with no branches. Measured in straight lines between the stations it is about 13.6 kilometres long. The stops are close together: Ueno-hirokoji to Ueno is about 520 metres and Nihombashi to Mitsukoshimae about 550. The longest gap, from Aoyama-itchome to Akasaka-mitsuke, is about 1.3 kilometres. Eleven of the 19 stations are shared with other lines, and Shibuya has four. In HelloSubway it is a level 1 line, about 194 keystrokes, which makes it a good first ride in Tokyo. Here is the line from west to east, with a photograph for fifteen of the stops.

The cover photograph shows Omotesando Avenue, the boulevard that was laid out as an approach to Meiji Shrine. Rows of tall zelkova trees form a leafy tunnel over it. The avenue draws visitors all year for its fresh greenery, its autumn colours and its winter illuminations.

West: Shibuya to Akasaka-mitsuke

Shibuya is the western end of the line. Miyashita Park is an elevated park along the Shibuya River, with a rooftop lawn and a skate area, and with shops and a hotel stacked beneath it. It stands for the recent redevelopment of the area.

Miyashita Park, near Shibuya station
Miyashita Park, an elevated park with shops and a hotel under it.Photo: Syced · CC0

At Omote-sando, Omotesando Hills is a shopping complex designed by Tadao Ando, with a gently sloping spiral ramp that winds around a central atrium. The next stop, Gaiemmae, is the stop for the outer garden of Meiji Shrine. Its Ginkgo Avenue is a row of ginkgo trees laid out to give a long perspective view, and the leaves turn golden in November and December. Meiji Jingu Stadium, a ballpark opened in 1926, is in the same park and is home to the Yakult Swallows.

Omotesando Hills, near Omote-sando station
The spiral ramp of Omotesando Hills.Photo: kcomiida · CC BY-SA 3.0
Jingu Gaien Ginkgo Avenue, near Gaiemmae station
Ginkgo Avenue in the outer garden of Meiji Shrine.Photo: ウィ貴公子 · CC BY-SA 4.0

Aoyama-itchome is the stop for Aoyama Cemetery, one of the first public cemeteries in Japan, established in the Meiji era. In spring its cherry trees form a tunnel of flowers. At Akasaka-mitsuke, Benkei Moat was built as part of the outer defences of Edo Castle, and it now holds a pond where visitors can hire rowing boats.

Aoyama Cemetery, near Aoyama-itchome station
Aoyama Cemetery, known for its cherry blossoms.Photo: Guilhem Vellut · CC BY 2.0
Benkei Moat, near Akasaka-mitsuke station
Benkei Moat, part of the old defences of Edo Castle.Photo: Immanuelle · CC BY 4.0

Tameike-sanno to Ginza

Hie Shrine, at Tameike-sanno, was deeply revered by the Tokugawa shoguns as the guardian deity of Edo Castle, and its vermilion buildings stand against the skyscrapers behind them. One stop on, Toranomon has Kotohira-gu, founded in 1660 inside a feudal lord's Edo residence and now surrounded by office towers.

Hie Shrine, near Tameike-sanno station
The vermilion halls of Hie Shrine against office towers.Photo: Immanuelle · CC BY 4.0

In the plaza outside Shimbashi Station stands a preserved steam locomotive, a C11-292, installed in 1972 to mark the centennial of the railway. It has long been a well-known meeting spot and a symbol of this office-worker district. Then comes Ginza. GINZA SIX opened in 2017 on the former site of the Matsuzakaya Ginza department store and has a rooftop garden, a bookstore and a Noh stage. The Wako building on the corner of the Ginza 4-chome intersection, completed in 1932 as the Hattori Clock Store, is another of Ginza's defining landmarks.

Shimbashi Station SL Square (C11 292 Steam Locomotive), near Shimbashi station
The C11-292 steam locomotive outside Shimbashi Station.Photo: Mike Peel (www.mikepeel.net) · CC BY-SA 4.0
GINZA SIX, near Ginza station
GINZA SIX, opened in 2017.Photo: Wpcpey · CC BY-SA 4.0

Nihombashi to Kanda

Nihombashi Bridge was first built in 1603, when Edo was founded as the capital of the shogunate, and it has long been the starting point of Japan's five great highways. The current stone double-arch bridge, the 20th version, dates from 1911, and an expressway runs directly overhead. The next stop is named for the Mitsukoshi department store. Its Renaissance-style main building was completed in 1914, and a pair of lion statues guard the main entrance.

Nihombashi Bridge, near Nihombashi station
Nihombashi Bridge, with the expressway above it.Photo: Aimaimyi · CC BY-SA 3.0
Mitsukoshi Nihombashi Main Store, near Mitsukoshimae station
The main store of Mitsukoshi, completed in 1914.Photo: Kakidai · CC BY-SA 4.0

At Kanda, mAAch ecute is built into the red-brick viaduct of the former Manseibashi Station. The arches date from 1912 and have been kept intact, and a deck on the old platform gives a close view of passing trains. Suehirocho is the stop for Yushima Seido, a Confucian shrine built in 1690 by the fifth Tokugawa shogun, Tsunayoshi, which later became the shogunate's official school.

mAAch ecute Kanda-Manseibashi, near Kanda station
The old brick viaduct of Manseibashi Station.Photo: Junya Ogura · CC BY-SA 2.0
Yushima Seido, near Suehirocho station
Yushima Seido, built in 1690.Photo: Abasaa · Public domain

East: Ueno to Asakusa

Ueno was one end of the first stretch in 1927. Ueno Park spreads out from the station's west exit, about 53 hectares of it, with museums and a zoo. Ueno Zoo opened in 1882 and is the oldest in Japan. Ueno Toshogu, a shrine to Tokugawa Ieyasu, is nicknamed the Golden Shrine for its gilded hall.

Ueno Toshogu, near Ueno station
Ueno Toshogu, the Golden Shrine.Photo: Unkei6hokusai4 · CC BY-SA 3.0

Near Tawaramachi is Kappabashi-dori, a street between Ueno and Asakusa lined with shops that supply restaurants, from knives and tableware to plastic display food. It is nicknamed Kitchen Town, and a giant chef's head sits on top of the Niimi tableware building.

Kappabashi-dori (Kitchen Town), near Tawaramachi station
Kappabashi-dori, known as Kitchen Town.Photo: Basile Morin · CC BY-SA 4.0

The line ends at Asakusa, beside Sensoji, Tokyo's oldest temple. Its outer gate, the Kaminarimon, has a giant lantern 3.9 metres tall. Beyond it, the inner gate, the Hozomon, has temple treasures on its upper floor and giant straw sandals hanging on the lower level. Hanayashiki, an amusement park said to have opened in 1853, is claimed to be the oldest in Japan.

Hozomon, near Asakusa station
The Hozomon, Sensoji's inner gate, with its giant straw sandals.Photo: Luis Villa del Campo from Madrid, Spain · CC BY 2.0

Type it yourself

The Ginza Line is one of the lightest lines in the game. The longest names are Aoyama-itchome, Akasaka-mitsuke and Mitsukoshimae at 13 letters each, and the shortest is Ueno at four. In Japanese mode the kanji name sits above the romaji you type, and the hyphens in names like Omote-sando are optional. Turn your Japanese input method off before you start, as the romaji guide explains. For the other half of the story, read why Tokyo has two subways, or ride the Yamanote loop.

Sources

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